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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.